Priego de Cordoba - a hidden gem

Priego de Cordoba is a comparatively unknown gem in Southern Cordoba Province of Andalucia. Many who visit this part of Spain incorporate, understandably, Granada and Cordoba into their itinery. But a short car journey, 1 hour from the aforementioned cities, will find you in a town surrounded on all sides by mountains and olive groves.

The old quarter, dating back to Moorish and Mediaeval times, is set on the edge of a plateau which creates an immediate impression as you approach the town. This district with its narrow, winding, and flower adorned lanes is known as the ‘Barrio de la Villa’. Here you are immediately transported back to the town’s Moorish past. It is not difficult to envisage a population adorned in North African attire, going about their business and chattering in a language you cannot understand. Today the stranger will find contemporary clothing but may still have difficulty with the language (few in this part of Andalucia speak English). However the local Spanish are extremely friendly and accommodating so language difficulties should not daunt the determined tourist.

Leaving the Villa head north towards the Adarve – a charming balcony/garden area which affords magnificent views of the Subbettica Mountain Range. The perfect spot for the amateur photographer.

The fountain and square adjacent to the old Castle is ideal for lunch. There are several good, reasonably priced restaurants, which serve local Andalucian cuisine. Indulge in a favourite local pastime – people watching. The perfect way to relax, before visiting Calle Rio.

This wide, impressive thoroughfare possesses numerous old townhouses. Here the merchants of Priego lived in the 18th century when the town prospered thanks to the silk trade. One look at the grand facades furnishes an insight into how wealthy the merchants became.

At the end of Calle Rio is the Fuentes del Rey – the fountains of the King. The oldest part dates from the 16th century with parts completed during the nineteenth. It is arranged on 3 levels with 139 jets spouting water. The location is an oasis of tranquillity in the midst of a busy town.

Finally, Priego is known as the capital of Cordoban Baroque. Three churches deserve particular mention – Parroquia de la Asuncion; El Sagrario and Ingesia de la Aurora. Deserving of a visit, the opulence and splendour of this type of architecture will not be to everyone’s taste.

In conclusion remember – a short distance from Cordoba and Granada is a Spain which many miss. Tourism is only in its infancy. Therefore you get a real authentic feel for what it’s like to live in Andalucia. Value for money is an added bonus. Food, drink and gifts are cheaper than in the major cities or on the coast.

The Mezquita, Cordoba

When you visit Andalucia, and particularly the city of Cordoba, it is important not to miss an opportunity to visit the ancient city mosque (or mezquita). This is one of Europe’s most impressive buildings. Its continuing existence is all the more amazing when you consider that comparatively little of Andalucia’s Moorish past survived the Christian reconquest. This fact is underlined when you consider that during the Moorish period Cordoba had around 3,000 mosques.

As you enter the scale of the building becomes apparent with row after row of parallel aisles which open up to the view as you walk through the building. This simple, but awe inspiring, form of architecture made it possible to extent the building easily throughout its long existence.

Equally you are struck by the simplicity of the building. As their religion dictated the Muslims were unable to incorporate any image of the human form into the decoration. This resulted in two types of decoration - plant and geometric designs plus the use of script in the form of verses of the Koran.

The simplicity is further underlined when you come upon the cathedral in the middle of the building. Commenced in the 16th century, here you witness in its full splendour the opulence of Spanish catholicism. While not out of place in another setting the cathedral does not sit well beside the mosque - a view shared by Emperor Carlos V who said at the time of its construction:

You have destroyed something unique, to build something commonplace.

When your visit is complete there can be few better experiences than to sit in the beautiful Patio de los Naranjos and contemplate your short insight into a culture which ended for Cordoba 750 years ago.

Casa de Suenos Guesthouse, near Priego de Cordoba, is an ideal location for visiting both Cordoba and Granada, being just 1 hour from both cities.

In praise of Almond Blossom

There can be nothing more destructive to the human spirit than a period of prolonged rain. Grey skies accompanied by a dampness which appears to permeate everything. But what a difference a couple of days can make. The sun has arisen with healing in its wings.

After one of the wettest Januarys in Andalucia for many years there has been a welcome return to sunshine. Alongside the sunshine the almond blossom is resplendent on the trees. When the almond tree attires itself in blossom it lights up the hillsides. You could be forgiven for thinking, at a distance, that the trees were covered in a mantle of snow. There can be no greater pleasure that walking along a hillside track, with the sound of olive harvesters hard at work echoing over the valley, and smelling the aromatic scent of the blossom.

The almond tree in this part of Spain is not a commercial crop. You will find trees interspersed through the olive groves. One here, one there; just enough for the farmer to harvest for his family’s use. Three trees grow in my own garden. You do wonder how the tree came to be grown in this area as it’s not a native. Almond trees are native to India, and westward to Israel, Syria and Turkey. At some time in Andalucia’s long history an invader - the Roman’s, the Moor’s or some earlier visitor - brought the Almond tree as part of their luggage. No better present could have been left behind after their departure.

The almond is an unusual plant. It’s a part of the genus Prunus, which makes it a relative of the apricot. Therefore the nut which you, and I eat, is not a nut at all – it’s a drupe. What’s a drupe I hear you say? Simply a drupe is a seed which is surrounded by an outer fleshy part. In an apricot you eat the fleshy part – when you reach the seed (or stone) in the middle you discard it. The almond after harvesting is left in the sun to dry, after which you dispose of the fleshy exterior. It is the seed in the middle which we keep and, after removing the shell, consume.

What does almond blossom and Indiana Jones have in common? Answer: the ‘Treasure of the Lost Ark’, I wonder if he knew that the ceremonial candlestick, which was an important part of the treasure, had almond blossom to thank for a central part of its design. Read Exodus 25 – there you will find that when Moses was assembling the candlestick he was told to make the cups at the end of each of the branches the shape of Almond Blossom.

So remember the February Almond Blossom in this part of Andalucia is a breathtaking spectacle which must be seen to be truly appreciated.